Catherine Bugue

Catherine Bugue

If Napa Valley’s Mount Veeder AVA were to put out an ad for growers, it would have to start with: WANTED: RUGGED TYPES. This southernmost mountain appellation in the western hills is 85% dense forest. There is little land to farm and wine production is just 1.3% of Napa Valley’s total. That makes wine from Mt. Veeder a rare commodity.

Anthem is rare to begin with; only 445 cases were made of this 2015 cab, but the talent behind this wine makes it one worth grabbing before they are gone. Jeff Ames is winemaker, and John Anthony Truchard manages the vineyard.

Come Thanksgiving, the turkey could be undercooked; the peas soft and mushy; and the stuffing drab and tasteless — it won’t matter if you have this stunning wine at the dinner table. Both powerful and polished, there is rich, silky fruit (black cherry, black plum) with savory and sweet spices.

Catherine Bugue is the Star’s tasting panel writer. Her weekly pursuit of a good glass of wine provides a nice supply of choices for the Wine of the Week column. If you’d like to submit a Napa Valley wine for this column, please send it to the Napa Valley Wine Academy, 2501 Oak St., Napa, CA 94559. There’s no guarantee your wine will be chosen to be featured, but all wines will be evaluated and considered.

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